Coolers...

Getting the rad ready to go back in, completing the rotrex oil circuit....

The kit comes with a longer bracket to space the bottom of the radiator further from the engine. Use red locktite to secure this to the block, but don't do as I did in this pic...leave the rad unconnected for now.

The kit also comes with a series of grommets and bracketry that allows the top of the rad to move down and forward. Basically you're building a little "briefcase handle" atop the rad. It then mounts to the bikes original top points using this handle, allowing a swing motion. Here's a pic of the silver "drop bracket" on the left side...

Mount the top of the rad to the bike.

The Rotrex traction fluid needs a circuit to ensure the unit gets a constant supply of cool filtered oil...

All the lines are precut, barb fittings preset, clamps all provided.

Lines... the two long lines from the rotrex are ziptied together, and are looped behind the radiator after getting a wrap of heat shielding where they pass near the exhaust. The hot oil leaving the rotrex loops up over the left top of the rad and falls into the provided oil cooler, which uses specialized ties to simply clamp it to the left front of the existing rad. Now cool, the oil returns to the reservoir, where it has a minute to defoam through the blue breather cap. P.S., don't clamp this hose on without bleeding the system, the lines are extremely tough to remove from their fittings. The reservoir is held upright by one screw, tapped into the top of the left frame rail.

It leaves the bottom of the tank, passes through a filter, and on back to provide boost happiness. Easy.

The system must be primed before use, though. Use either compressed air into the breather hole until you see return fluid, or use a brake bleeder to suck fluid through the system. I'm afraid of trapped air bubbles in fluid lines, so I used the vacuum method. No problems.

Install the aluminum intake elbow onto the silicone tubing and clamp. Realize the filter will live under the right fairing panel just above the radiator cap to visualize the necessary angles.

Reinstall upper small coolant lines, attach to lower mount, and tighten upper mounting bolt.

The right upper hose (the one that used to connect to the part that was cut and flared) is now too short to make the trip. Cut the hose just above the timing cover uppermost bolt and splice in the aluminum tubing. 

Now it reaches. You'll have to cut an angle at the end of the hose somewhat to get a clampable match onto the flared barb.