Blower, meet bike...

Time has come. The crank connector is a critical piece. First, massage the o-ring into the groove of the "new" timing cover, aka the lower part of the bracket. Now it gets complicated. You'll need two kinds of  Locktite, a red 266 and the heavy duty green 609 retaining compound.

First CLEAN everything with a spray carb/brake cleaner to remove any oils.

The backside face of the crank connector gets a dose of red where it snugs up against the timing wheel, as do the threads on the new longer crank bolt.

The 609 gets laid in a thin bead between the outer diameter of the crank connector and the inside of the inner high speed bearing race. Push the connector through the bearing and apply a thin ring, then push it back through and redo the same. The idea is to get the connector and bearing race to lock together without getting any compound in the bearing itself.




Fit the bracket to the bike, making sure rubber sheet atop motor is out of the way and the clutch cable is ziptied to the ignition pickup and both are routed behind the bracket.

Just barely start the timing cover bolts and the longer cam chain guide bolt. Carefully push the crank connector assembly toward the crank, then bolt the pulley bolt into the crank end, ensuring the timing wheel remains in place. Torque to 45ft/lb.

Snug the timing cover bolts to 9ft/lb, the guide bolt to 18ft/lb. Also in the kit is a socket head bolt with a spacer and nut. Both nut and spacer have a flat ground on them. This assembly bolts through the bracket into an existing engine boss. Blue locktite. You can see half the bolt behind the idler pulley above.